 A vegetarian cyclist's tale
Last year I decided to that my hubby Jeff and I needed a break but the only way to get him to go is on a cycling trip. I decided since I have known them for years and they were a vegetarian tour operator that I would book this company in Wales called Bicycle Beano. But we (I) wanted to do London for a few days first. I also wanted to do London on the last date because I have a cousin that lives in Paris that I have never met and was going to take the train to meet us (more on that later)
We arrive in London Heathrow. We then took the Paddington Express, which is great because it takes you there in about 20 minutes and is cheaper then, anything else (which is not saying much). We had all of luggage and Jeff's bike (I rented one there). When Jeff and I get to Paddington I thought that the hotel we were staying at was right there but actually was about 2 blocks away. Believe me when I say this but that was the longest 2 blocks we have ever walked (with 3 bags and a bike bag with wheels). We get to the hotel. It had to be the hottest day of the year (not really, wait until you read the end of this). The hotel is a not much to write home about at $140 a night with no air conditioning. We did not care we were just tired and wanted somewhere to sleep. We walked around Kensington Gardens and went to see Diana's memorial water park thing (not sure what you would call it). It was supposed to be like a water garden for people to walk in and around but because some women went in it and fell, they had to close it and have this tacky orange plastic fencing around it. It was not worth the walk.
That night we met up with Jeff's cousin who lives there and she took us to Primrose Hill where you can see all of London from there. From there we went and ate at a place called Manna's vegetarian. Very upscale and probably the best food I have had in London. Helen Carter Bonham, the actress was there. I had the-tapas olé smoky tofu albondigas al jerez, catalan minted broad beans, grilled sour dough panboli, spinach and carrot croquetas, garbanzo salad and orange, avocado and olive salad (v) and of course for desert (as a vegan I can never pass up a vegan desert) the wonderful German chocolate layer cake with a pecan & coconut frosting and served with mocha ice cream, a traditional American cake originally made with 'German' brand chocolate hence the name. The next day we went to the Tate Museum. Very interesting place. Would definitely recommend to people as a must see. We saw the Head to Head exhibit A temporary Turbine Hall display exploring how sculptors have represented the head over the last hundred years.
The following day we took the train from Paddington to Hereford, which is in western England. There were three of us now as one of my clients joined us on the trip. When we arrived at Hereford we needed to find a cab that would be able to take the entire luggage and us with us to the guesthouse. No one wanted us so they called up a cabbie who they thought would take the job on. His name was Patrick and we got to know him well the rest of the week. Apparently all the cabbies give him all of the challenging requests. When we arrived we were greeted by the owners of Bicycle Beano, Jane Barnes and her partner Rob Green. Rob and Jane have been in this business for more then 20 years and know the area well. We stayed at this guesthouse called Poulstone Court. They only do groups and are booked about 1 yr in advance. It is in an incredible location with beautiful land scape surroundings. The accommodations are basic rooms with shared bath. If you stay in a shared room you are paired up with up to six people in a room (1-2 men’s room and 1-2 women's room). We decided to get the private room, which is extra, but being married it helps. Most of the people on the trip were repeat customers. They all know each other from past trips and there was one couple that had met on a trip last year and now is now engaged. This place is in a valley and surrounded by farms. You could hear the sheep all night long. The night we arrive we are fed dinner and then the bicycle rental shop comes by to outfit us with our bikes that we rent, helmets that we need and any other optional needs.
After every breakfast we have a meeting detailing our route. We are each given maps (please, I can’t find my way out of a bag!). Rob gives us ideas on where to stop and which castle or church is worth seeing. Please keep in mind that I have never biked more then 25 miles in one day and we are supposed to go over 35 and I have not done much in the way of hills. Not to mention it was mostly hills! Now a little about the food. We ate ALOT! What is up with the British and their tea breaks anyway? We would wake up in the morning and have a HUGE breakfast. Muesili, fruit toast (usually 2 slices) and juice. Then we would bike for 10 miles and stop and have a mid-morning tea break with toast and or scones (for the nonvegans). Then we would bike another 5-10 miles and stop for a big lunch. And of course after every big meal was a huge long hill! Then we would ride for another 10 miles and stop for afternoon tea with toast and scones again! I would bring Cliff Bars with me instead of scones. Then cycle home about 5-10 miles and when you get there they would have either cookies or fruitcake and TEA! Or instead before you get home there is a pub along the way about 1 mile from the Poulstone and stop for a beer (only once did I attempt to do that). Then we would have dinner-HUGE! The vegan meals that Poulstone served- Lasagna, Vegetable Curry, White Nutmeat Roast, Paella, Greek Stuffed Peppers, Cauliflower & Courgette. Gado Gado and a Savory Country Flan.
Day1-First day out I am ready to go! Well we did probably about 50 miles that day! And I was not even sore! The old churches and castles were amazing! Today we went past the Symonds Yat Symonds Yat, on a 5-mile bend of the River Wye with great views, Symonds Yat Rock is a wooded limestone outcrop where the river loops around, spot the protected Peregine Falcons flying from their nest. We had lunch at the Royal Hotel. After that we went thru the Forest of Dean This is one of England’s few remaining ancient forests covering over 27,000 acres of woodland. The Royal Forest of Dean lies in the western part of Gloucestershire between the Rivers Wye and Severn and on the borders of Wales and Herefordshire. It is one of the most distinctive areas of Britain having a seductive charm and character that is uniquely its own. Its range of stunning landscapes and spectacular scenery has inspired artists, craftspeople, inventors, poets and playwrights, as well as the many visitors who return to the area year after year. Each night they would have some type of activity for us. The first night was volleyball.
2nd day-Today we decided not to do quite all of the detours so this was more like a 30-35 mile ride. We did all of our tea stops and lunch stops etc… I did fall on my bike. I was standing still and trying to get on my bike when I fell over and fell into the hedgerows. Got a little cut and lots of bruises but got right back on the bike! Tonight we had a game where you would have to remember everyone’s name. Jeff bagged out of that one. He sometimes can't remember my name!
3rd day-bike about 27 miles. The third night I discovered something about my client, Marian, who I have known for years but did not know that she was a table tennis buff. We had championship games. She beat out everyone!
4th day- Today was a non-biking day so Jeff and I decided to visit with a famous potter in Wales. Jeff runs a pottery school here in the DC area and had met this man years ago. We had Patrick the cabbie pick us up and take us there. Phil Rogers is one of the most famous potters in Europe www.philrogerspottery.com/ The ride up was about 2 hours and one of the most scenic rides I ever had. We came back that day and just relaxed! But of course since it was my birthday the group threw me a birthday party and we had vegan fruitcake, and of course, TEA!
5th day-Rode again. Not quite so hilly which was nice. Some of us stayed up and played word games while others went to bed to catch up on their rest.
6th day-Our last day to ride. It was bittersweet. On one hand I was looking forward to not riding those big hills anymore, on the other hand we had met some very special people on this trip. We got to see some castle ruins and stopped at some very nice places for lunch and beer. And we also got to ride over the Welch Border.
That night after dinner one of our commrades, Beth was a massage therapist and she taught us couples massage. After that we were all so tired that all we could do is go to our rooms and pack up our bags and go to sleep.
The next day we set out to catch the 930A direct train (partly because we did not want to switch trains with all of our luggage and partly because we were meeting someone at a certain time). We get almost to London (I believe it was Slough) and the train breaks down. We had to get all of our luggage and run to the stop where the next train was. By the time we got there we missed the train and had to catch one 20 minutes later. What a fiasco and a headache! But at this point we had a shuttle system going with the 3 of us with the luggage. We arrive at Paddington and do the shuttle system to the hotel. My client and I took the first load of luggage to the same hotel as before and checked in. My cousin was waiting for us and helped us with the rest of the luggage. We went to a place called Caffe Neros that serves vegan lattes and had air-conditioning. Caffee Neros-14-15 Spring Street, Paddington Tel: 0207 706 9893 To let you know about my cousin, he found my name on the internet a few years back as he was doing a genealogy site. Our family is very small and we always thought that there were only about 20 of us including 2nd and 3rd cousins in the US, but come to find out that there are hundreds of us in France! So we had coffee and dinner with my cousin and Jeff's cousin met us for dinner that evening. There we ate at a place called ASK 41-43 Spring Street LONDON, W2 Tel: (020) 7706 0707 It was a trendy Italian restaurant that was able to come up with a great pasta and tomato dish vegan style. All in all this was the most relaxing, yet tiring trip I think I have ever taken. Would I do this again, yes without a thought. Anytime soon? Ask me on my next bike hill ride.
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